Mongolia’s unique relationship with dairy raises a fascinating question: how do people who are genetically lactose intolerant thrive on a milk-heavy diet? Archaeogeneticist Christina Warinner and her team are uncovering how Mongolia’s rich traditions and microbial ecosystems may hold the answer.
A Land Where Dairy Reigns Supreme
In Mongolia, dairy products are a cornerstone of life, with milk from cows, yaks, goats, and even horses turned into a wide variety of foods. From the fermented drink airag to the hard cheese aaruul, dairy dominates the local cuisine. Yet, most Mongolians are genetically unable to digest lactose, the sugar found in milk. Despite this, they consume significant amounts of dairy, particularly during the summer months when milk products can provide up to half their daily calories.
The Microbial Mystery of Milk Digestion
Warinner’s research suggests that Mongolians may owe their ability to consume dairy to the microbes around them. Their homes, built from felt, leather, and wood, are teeming with bacteria that interact with their food and bodies. These microbes ferment the milk, breaking down lactose and making it digestible. This process not only shapes their food but also forms a dynamic ecosystem that supports their health.
Traditional Microbiomes vs. Industrialized Diets
In industrialized nations, sterilized environments and processed foods have led to a decline in microbial diversity. Studies show that people living traditional lifestyles, like Mongolian herders, have more diverse microbiomes. This diversity could explain why they avoid certain health issues, such as food intolerances and autoimmune diseases, that are on the rise in modern societies.
Ancient Clues from Dental Plaque
Warinner’s team uses ancient dental plaque to uncover the history of dairy consumption. By analyzing calcified plaque from ancient Mongolian skeletons, they discovered milk proteins from thousands of years ago. These findings reveal that Mongolians have relied on dairy for millennia, even without the genetic mutation that allows many Europeans to digest milk.
Fermentation: The Key to Dairy Digestion
Fermentation is central to Mongolian dairy traditions. Unlike Western cheeses, which rely on rennet and fungi, Mongolians use microbial cultures called khöröngö, passed down through generations. These “starter cultures” transform milk into digestible forms, such as yogurt and cheese. The microbial diversity in these cultures is nurtured by the environment, including the milk-soaked felt of their yurts.
Modern Science Meets Ancient Practices
Warinner’s project, now called Dairy Cultures, seeks to catalog these traditional microbial ecosystems. Her findings suggest that the key to Mongolians’ dairy tolerance lies not in a single “superbug” but in a complex network of microbes and practices. This system includes the microbes in their guts, the bacteria in their yurts, and the methods used to process milk.
What the West Can Learn from Mongolia
The loss of traditional microbiomes in industrialized societies may be linked to modern health problems. Warinner believes that studying Mongolia’s dairy ecosystem could offer insights into restoring microbial diversity. This research might also improve treatments for food intolerances and refine the science behind probiotics.
Preserving a Vanishing Heritage
As more Mongolians move to cities and adopt modern diets, their traditional practices and microbial ecosystems are disappearing. Warinner’s team is racing to document these systems before they vanish. She believes preserving not just the microbes but also the knowledge and traditions that sustain them is essential. Without these practices, the delicate balance of Mongolia’s dairy culture could be lost forever.
Conclusion: A Holistic View of Dairy and Health
Mongolia’s relationship with dairy offers a powerful lesson: health isn’t just about genetics—it’s about the ecosystems we cultivate in and around us. By understanding the intricate web of microbes, traditions, and environments that allow Mongolians to thrive on a dairy-rich diet, we may find new ways to address lactose intolerance and other modern health challenges. Mongolia’s example reminds us that preserving traditional knowledge and practices is as important as the science that seeks to understand them.
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